5 Favorite Runway Looks from Khaite, Toteme, TWP, and more.
Plus, *the* Phoebe Philo manicure.
A lot of ground to cover, so no Ed letter today. Let’s dive right into the back nine of NYFW and what jumped out at me.
Trish at TWP worked with our buddy Gigi Burris on a scattering of hats for their (very outdoor) runway, turning out the platonic ideal of my California wardrobe. Maria McManus also tapped Esha Soni for runway handbags and Le Sundial for jewelry:
I liked this bit from Maria’s show notes:
Dare I say Khaite was sporty? The show’s vibe was familiar (dark, booming audio, architectural set). Still, the collection took a break from its leatherbound stomps into a visual Uno Reverse of last season’s grumbly leopard spots, making a big dip into a distinctly ‘90s sportswear vibe. Kendall Jenner walked the runway (when everyone thought she was in town for Calvin Klein) in big, splashy polka-dots, a print we saw a lot of last summer in smaller scale. I relate to designer Catherine Holstein a lot. She’s not really huge on the party scene or into having her picture taken, and she’s honest about being shy, but her work is fearsome. She’s into her family and her interior life more than how people perceive her exterior life, which is refreshing. And I think it shows up in her work.
Here’s the soundtrack from the Khaite show, by the way:
I don’t think anyone is surprised to hear me say I liked Toteme. I’m consistently vocal that this is one of my favorite brands, both on the runway and off. It is one of my most-worn in my real life, but there is just enough fantasy to their runway that their decisive staples still feel imaginative. Before the runway show, they sent me over the cutest little version of their popular T-lock clutch in black patent leather. I hadn’t held it in this mini size yet, only seen it online, and it’s really a perfect fall SLB.
Still left to go: Kallmeyer, 6397, a Proenza re-see, and
’s thoughts on menswear offerings from Todd Snyder and the newly-revived J.Press, with Jack Carlson at the helm (formerly of Rowing Blazers, which Carlson sold to Burch Industries).
Other bits and bobs…
On Sunday, Gwyneth Paltrow came to town, touting GWYN, a new clothing line set to replace G. Label. Remember when we broke news of her new designer earlier this year? I guess you nab someone of that pedigree and decide it’s time for a reset. I’ll share photos with you when it's released later this week.
Alex Mill’s Alex Drexler, along with Karen Drexler and Susan Woo, debuted Arlo Mott, a new made-in-New York sportswear line, in his signature aesthetic. It’s so personal that he opened his home to the media to show it. Think less workwear, more cashmere.
Dorsey releases the expanded Georgian collection today, now offering moissanite as a mid-tier stone for shoppers who aren’t quite ready for a diamond, but want something a little nicer than a sapphire. I think the honey stones in particular are going to do well.
Model Taylor Hill and her sister McKinley are launching a jewelry line called Stone Fruit on September 30. It’s playful, you’ll like it. Mark your calendars.
Memo Paris has released a perfume in collaboration with French artist Jean Jullien inspired by The Odeon. Notes of rose and sandalwood, for you bloodhounds.
May I suggest sheer chiffon shirting under your knits this fall?
This razor-hot pink fair isle knit from High Sport sparks MAJOR joy.
I leave you with the only manicure that matters, from Phoebe Philo:
The beauty editor I’m looking to hire is the kind of person who can figure out the exact polish shades used here and who the manicurist was.
