Starter Watches That Pass the Wrist Check
So you’re not ready for a Patek, but you know better than a Daniel Wellington...
While I’m in the Hamptons for my bachelorette and bridal shower (yes, it’s happening — linen, champagne, the whole thing), I’ve lined up a few guest editors to take over The Love List while I’m out. They’re friends of the letter (and me!) with great taste and strong opinions, and they’ll be popping in with edits, essays, and outfits. I hope you hop over to their newsletters next.
Today’s guest editor is my friend . John is a New York–based creative director, writer, and editor known for shaping brand narratives in fashion and lifestyle. He’s a published author, ex-cookie kingpin, and seasoned magazine vet from his years at GQ and Lucky. He’s also held senior creative positions at Bonobos, Twitter, and, most recently, as VP of Creative at Mack Weldon. Oh, and he’s also a new Dad! Subscribe to his Substack, .
- Jess
You could make an entire career (many do, in fact) out of watch expertise. It is the most complicated microcosm in the style universe. There’s so much more to think about with watches than with clothes or other accessories. They are, after all, tiny little machines.
I consider myself a pretty knowledgeable person when it comes to clothing, thanks to years working as a fashion editor and even more years spent in creative at brands like Kate Spade and Bonobos. But watches are my blind spot. I know I like them and that I should probably man up and buy one (my wrists are naked), but I don’t even know where to begin.
It’s all a lot of food for thought. As a neophyte in this whole thing, I’ve always imagined a Cartier, maybe with a leather band, which is more suited to my casual style. But there is something about the JLC Reverso that feels good to me as an investment. If I were just dipping my toes in here or perhaps giving a gift, the Unimatic or the Nomos Club would be perfect.
With a milestone birthday coming soon, this might be my year. So I called in some experts to see what’s on their radar and seek some guidance since I would treat this as an investment. Here’s what the smartest and most stylish people in my phone had to say.
(Also, my birthday is in December.)
Brynn Wallner, Founder of Dimepiece*: “When I started Dimepiece (my platform dedicated to women and watches) in 2020, I didn't even own a watch. A year in, so many people kept asking me about "my collection" (non-existent) that I knew I had to shell out. After extensive research, I landed on a small, steel Cartier Tank Française, which I bought from the Cartier mansion on 5th avenue.
First — the fact that I could get it at the boutique was a draw because I wanted the full luxury experience for my first watch (due to high demand and low supply, you can't walk into, say, a Rolex boutique and get a new Rolex. You're forced to explore the secondary market. This is not the case with most watches at Cartier).
Second — this watch is quartz (aka battery) powered, small and made of steel, so it sits on the low end of the luxury watch pricing spectrum (at $3,200, it's still the most money I've ever spent on any material item, but it's "affordable" for a watch). Although this watch is not "collectable" and will not turn a profit if I were to ever sell it, it has the built-in heritage of the brand, it's versatile, elegant, easy to wear, and I don't have to think about the mechanics of it due to it being quartz powered. In short, a perfect, low-maintenance first watch! Sadly, Cartier phased out the original design of the Tank Française, replaced by a souped-up version that is a bit too flashy for my taste... But thousands of these are on the secondary market (TheRealReal, eBay etc.) and they're reasonably priced.”
Justin Berkowitz, Strategic Partner at NN.07: “I tend to prefer simple, uncomplicated designs in watches — so when JLC introduced their tribute to 1931 Reverso, it was pretty much love at first sight. It’s about as pared-back as a watch design can be. I find the tank shape modern and elegant, and the reverse side of the watch flips to show only clean metal. It’s the kind of piece that is great with a suit, but what I really love about it is how much it can dress up something more casual — like a crewneck tee tucked into a pair of trousers — which is more typically how I tend to be dressed. I’ve worn the watch for more than ten years and could not recommend it more highly.”
Ed note: Great minds do think alike. The Reverso was highly recommended in this search and received top billing from Tony Traina and Michael Williams.
Traina is the founder and editor of Unpolished, the newsletter for watch collectors. He's a former editor at Hodinkee: “Forget the obvious Rolex or Cartier. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is the slept-on icon. Pure Art Deco, with a recent reissue in the original modest size that's great for men and women. The Revero's blank caseback is ideal for a personal engraving—a low-key, insider's pick for anyone looking to up their watch game.”
Michael Williams is, of course, the founder of
(The most “O” of the OG independent style writers.): “…I would recommend two watches. First is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. It's got a classic shape, will never go out of style, and watch nerds highly respect JLC. The other fun thing about the Reverso is the fact that it's a sports watch but with the styling of a dress watch.”
If that’s not your taste, Michael’s second pick is a little more refined: “Some people can't wear a rectangular watch, so without knowing who this is for, but understanding they want something more refined, I recommend the Rolex Datejust. It's another classic, and it's quite elegant. At 36mm, it could also work for men or women, which is nice if you want to give it as a gift and then claim it for yourself. Lastly, in an apocalyptic pinch, a Rolex can become instant currency, which is nice.”
Ed note: According to Dimepiece, this also happens to be the pick of one of my favorite authors, Danielle Prescod.
Albert Muzquiz, Content Creator (@edgyalbert): “If you’re looking to graduate to something more sophisticated — or actually graduate (Nomos offers free engraving for graduation gifts) — I think the Nomos Club Campus is a fabulous choice. It’s relatively inexpensive in the wider world of watches, comes in several sizes and dial colors, and has that most essential watch nerd feature — an in-house movement. This was my first nice watch and served as a great education in mechanical watches. Nice enough to get compliments from those in the know, but subtle enough you'll feel safe on the subway. It’s sort of the perfect starting point.”
Jian DeLeon, Men’s Fashion Director, Nordstrom: “I like watches, but I'm not a ‘watch guy.’ In fact, I probably don't get along with the majority of ‘watch guys.’ I just know what I like and appreciate nice things that are made well! Until I discovered Unimatic, I didn't know there was a watch company for that type of person. Founder Giovanni Moro is the nicest guy and has a penchant for really well-priced watches that use movements manufactured either by the Swiss company Selitta or the Japanese artisans at Seiko, so you get high-priced accuracy at watches that often clock in at well under $1,000. On top of that, Unimatic regular does limited-edition releases and fun collaborations featuring everything from SpongeBob Squarepants to menswear favorites like Todd Snyder and Mihara Yasuhiro — all of which have a collectible aspect to them.”
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I’m going to add Vaer to the list- classic styling, very practical dive watches that are super reasonably priced. I don’t know how I’m not hearing about that brand all the time. I wanted a beat about watch I could get wet for eternity and not worry about and that is exactly what mine has been for the past three years. Can’t recommend it more.
Gonna be real here not a single one of these pieces is a “starter” watch. A starter piece should be something with an entry level price point, good aesthetics, and a decent movement. All of these have amazing movements and aesthetics but the cheapest watch here was over 1000.
In my opinion this list is pure watch snobbery or at the very least shows that the author is hopelessly out of touch.