The Exhaustive Guide to Skincare, 2024 Edition
Serum wardrobes! Status facials! French pharmacies! Lessons learned!
Ed. note: In 2020, I wrote an exhaustive skincare guide for a group of friends and family, and it blew up. It came along after guinea pigging what I felt was every product on the Internet during COVID. After all, what better time to test something that might break me out than during quarantine? That’s when the skin tinkering began.
Since then, we’ve published a massive, updated guide with new learnings, improved products, and routine tweaks annually. This guide is a huge undertaking and one of our most popular and anticipated sends.
Please share this recklessly because this is a cumulative FOUR YEARS of work.
As this newsletter has grown, we’ve come into the graces of many lovely beauty PR professionals who send me all kinds of products to try. I experimented with so many things on my skin this year that I gave myself a brief bout of perioral dermatitis that Sofie Pavitt had to fix in person. Oops! (Thank you, Sofie!)
I have learned a lot.
We’re partnering with InnBeauty Project for the Guide this year because their innovative, new-to-market Extreme Cream moisturizer solved a big issue for our readers: “I love Augustinus Bader, but it’s so expensive! Can you recommend an alternative?” Until 2024, I couldn’t. But their Extreme Cream is competitively formulated and $48. I also love that the bottle is refillable.
So, I give you the 2024 version of this, an exhaustive guide to all my hard-won skincare lessons learned.
Before we dive in, a few friendly reminders:
I’m not a dermatologist, injector, or esthetician. Please talk to your professional squad before implementing new products, especially those with actives—I sure do. Not everything plays well together, especially on different skin types, so ensure you’re mixing and layering products safely. When it comes to lasers, razors, or needles, just let a pro handle that.
Your skin is different from mine. I am in my 30s, white, with fair-medium olive-toned skin. I have combination skin, which is oily in my T-zone and dry elsewhere. My primary concerns are hormonal acne, fine lines, eczema, loss of volume, and, most importantly, avoiding skin cancer.
This letter contains many discount codes exclusive to The Love List. Scroll to the bottom and check the codes section before making any purchases!
Timing is everything. I am re-issuing this revised and updated guide to coincide with the Sephora Savings Event, which begins 11/1 at 11:59 PST for Rouge VIB members. Rouge VIB members get 20% off with code SAVINGS. Many of the staples outlined below are discounted until 11/11/24. VIB members receive 15% off starting 11/5/24, while the Beauty Insider tier gets 10% off. Lots of people pre-load their carts, which Sephora will save for you.
Most of this stuff is nice to have but not vital. I find skincare fun, and I love to tinker! Please don’t think you need to do everything I do, try everything I’ve attempted to, or use me as a barometer to overconsume. Because of this job, I have extraordinary access to a wide variety of products for free. I try them so I can report to you what I like yearly. I don’t use all this stuff at once; this guide is for you to read with discretion. All you need is a cleanser, a moisturizer, and sunscreen.
STEP 1: Do battle with any morning puffiness and redness.
Products and practices:
If I’m puffy (ahem, wine face), I still like the Doré more elevated ice roller. Also still on my roster is Sofie’s Nice Ice, which are liquid toner pads that live in your freezer and de-puff as they melt. Both are also great post-treatment if you’ve recently undergone any laser work.
Another good little trick is to stash eye and face masks in your fridge. They feel great when they’re nice and cold. Cooling on my shelf right now are Joanna Czech face masks and eye masks by NakedBeauty MD and Jillian Dempsey. I pull one out whenever I need a juicy morning boost or have allergy eyes.
The cool girl skincare toy du mois is Therabody’s depuffing wand, which has a temperature-controlled tip. Everybody is crazy about this thing, even some of the city’s most prominent facialists. Would an ice cube work as well? Sure. But this is less messy and a lot more fun. Any girl would LOVE to see this under the tree or as a Hannukkah gift.
I still stand by The Light Salon’s LED red light mask. I rock red LED for ten to twenty minutes 2-3x times a week, and I think it’s the best at-home device for evening skin tone.
This year, I’ve ditched NuFace in favor of the Ziip, a new (to me) microcurrent device with a stronger zap and a better hand feel. The gratification of that instant lift always gives me a little charge — pun intended.
Clarins’ Instant Depuffing Mask is a four-year champion, having made this guide every single year. It’s still the best product I’ve ever found for salt or booze hangovers. After ten minutes with this on your face, your cheekbones and jawline will return. It’s miraculous stuff. Pair with the depuffing wand!
STEP 2: I wash my face most mornings with a gentle cleanser and cool water. If my skin is happy that morning (no irritation), I use a Vitamin C serum, maybe followed by something nourishing or soothing to baby my barrier.
Products and practices:
I’ve tried a lot of good cleansers this year, but I still like Vinters Daughter for the morning in particular— you only need a bit of the creamy, gentle formula. It is price-prohibitive for some, though, and I understand why someone wouldn’t want to shell out a hundred bucks for a cleanser. I also love Sofie Pavitt’s gel cleanser, which is far more affordable. I use it in the morning if I wash off a lot of skincare goop from the night before.
Sometimes, I’m lazy, and all I do to cleanse is swipe a swipe of Bioderma’s Micellar Water, though Sofie Pavitt’s new Micellar pads are genius for being pre-soaked.
Other cleansers I’ve tried that I think are worthy of this list: Glossier’s Milky Jelly Cleanser (now an OG but still a category-defining product), The Outset’s Micellar Cleanser (I love the simplicity of this new brand’s formulas), and Allies of Skin’s Molecular Silk Amino Hydrating Cleanser.
Fun fact: The last time I went for a facial at Joanna Czech, Sam Smith was right after me in the waiting room, and I got to tell them I love them. I never get starstruck, but I was that girl. If her clientele doesn’t speak for itself, her products will. Joanna makes a phenomenal toning mist. If my skin is parched, I’ll spritz it (or Summer Fridays’ Jet Lag Mist) to dampen it before proceeding with other steps. Look for something with ingredients like squalane, green tea extract, and glycerine to soothe and lock in moisture.
I’ve found two new Vitamin C serums I like this year: Westman Atelier’s Supreme C (a springy gel oil) and YSE Beauty’s Morning Cocktail (a more traditional serum consistency). Both are stable derivatives properly packaged to ensure shelf life. I alternate between them, depending on which is handier. Both sell out very frequently, so if you find them in stock, don’t wait.
I also still love Vinters Daughter’s Active Treatment Essence, which has a thinner consistency that I like to use in the summer — it’s the only one that came with me to the Hamptons. While it’s technically a Vitamin C, I apply this one in the evening because of the additional actives (to avoid sun sensitivity).
Westman Atelier’s Skin Activator serum is a juicy moisture bomb that softens lines and lays down a great base layer for makeup. The rollerball set would be a generous gift.
Dieux Skin’s Deliverance Serum and Tammy Fender’s Plant Milk are excellent for calming my skin when it freaks out, which it’s done much more of since moving to New York’s harsher climate. I got a sunburn in Palm Beach and had a Tammy Fender facial where she used the Plant Milk to calm the inflammation, and it worked like a charm. I’d consider both a maintenance tool. They keep the peace.
I also want to mention Tower 28’s SOS Daily Facial Rescue Spray, which is in its own category. The star ingredient is Hypochlorous Acid, which has antibacterial properties that soothe and sanitize your skin. It is equally excellent as a calming and balancing agent or as a quick substitute for a cleanse in a hurry.
STEP 3: Moisturize, dab on an eye cream, and seal it with face oil.
Product recs:
La Roche Posay’s Cicaplast Baume B5 is an all-time favorite drugstore find. I sometimes apply it to my lips as an overnight treatment.
Augustinus Bader’s The Rich Cream is still a winter stalwart on my vanity. I stock up whenever it’s on sale. People especially appreciate receiving it as a holiday gift. If you prefer the lighter “The Cream” formula or something not quite so heavy (or expensive), opt for InnBeauty’s Extreme Cream, a viral $48 alternative to lift, smooth, and give your skin a glossy glow. Try the mini first if you’re not sure.
When it gets cool out, U-Beauty’s The Super Hydrator has dethroned The Rich Cream for me. I love this stuff; it leaves my skin so juicy and dewy. It’s incredibly wonderful under makeup.
When this guide went out in 2023, U-Beauty had just released a tinted formula version of the Super Hydrator. Since then, it’s become my favorite complexion product. The coverage is sheer, flexible, and buildable — it’s more moisturizer than makeup. People always compliment my skin when I pair the two. If you’re a five-minute face kind of person, try it.
When battling the aforementioned perioral dermatitis, Dieux’s Instant Angel moisturizer did more to help repair my damaged skin barrier than any other product. The magic words here are ceramides and lipids. A few months ago, I also got Dr. Loretta’s (similar) Barrier Repair Gel Cream and I like it just as much, it rests a little lighter on the skin.
At this life stage, I struggle more with dark under eyes than fine lines. U Beauty’s The Return Eye Concentrate is great bedfellows with The Super Hydrator, and a couple of my friends in their 60s swear by it. On no-makeup days, this is my go-to. However, if I wear makeup, I reach for Olehenriksen’s Banana Bright Eye Cream, which I mix with a tiny dab of concealer. It does wonders to wake up my under-eyes. Last week, I was gifted Colorscience Total 3-in-1 Renewal Therapy, and now, I may abandon that trick; this all-in-one wand might be the best undereye product I’ve ever used.
If you don’t battle dry or combination skin, you don’t need something as heavy-duty as I do. This year, Ilia dropped a great new product that feels like a watery moisturizing essence. You pat it in, and it also dries down to make a great makeup primer. You get a big bottle of it — great value for the price. Think of it as the next evolution of Merit’s Great Skin; in my opinion, they’re interchangeable in your routine.
I'll often press in Vinter’s Daughter’s gorgeous oil after moisturizer to lock everything in. My skin loves anything with anti-inflammatory Frankincense in the formula. I find cult favorite The Beauty Sandwich’s Secret Sauce very similar.
Other gorgeous, delightful-to-use face oils I’ve tried that won’t disappoint you: GoopGenes Super Nutrient Facial Oil, TrueBotanicals Renew Pure Radiance Oil, Mara Algae + Moringa Face Oil, Maelove Love 31 Oil, de Mamiel Spring Oil, U Beauty’s The Super Face Oil (one of the few I believe actually moisturizes and does not simply lock moisture in) and Kindred Black French Plum Face Oil.
If you don’t love oil-based formulas, swap these out for Furtuna Skin’s super gentle Face and Eye Serum.
STEP 4: Sunscreen is the most critical daytime step. Wait a bit to apply it — let your other stuff soak in for five or ten minutes if possible. Ensure you use enough to get proper protection, and if you’re a good skin care Girl Scout, plan on re-applying later in the day. Finish with lip balm.
Products and practices:
My favorite no-BS, does-it-all sunscreen is by Summer Fridays. Two fingers full. It doesn’t leave my skin flaky, it doesn’t pill under makeup, and it sinks in beautifully. It’s just an excellent formula! Right up there with it is Maelove’s The Sun Protector sunscreen, but given its chalk-white formula, I’m not confident recommending it for melanated skin despite a great price point. I also like Allies of Skin’s The One SPF, but it has actives, including Vitamin C, so check what else you’re layering it with.
My favorite luxury option is Eighth Day’s The Rejuvenating Moisturizing Primer with SPF 30+. Friends of all skin tones love this stuff. It’s pricey, but it knocks out a lot of other stuff in your routine by acting as a 3-in-1. Don’t be spooked by the tint when you pump it out—it disappears into your skin—impressive for a zinc-based formula. The luxury runner-up is Dr. Loretta’s SPF, which dries down more matte if you don’t care for the dewy look.
There are about one million (that is an exact, scientific number) lip balms on the market, most of which are decent. My favorites are Summer Fridays Lip Butter Balm, OleHenrikson Pout Preserve, and Furtuna Skin’s Olive Lip Butter Balm. I’m sorry, I don’t like the famous Rhode lip balm. It gets grainy not long after buying.
If you like plumping ingredients under your balm, Dr. Devgan’s lip wand does the job without making your face feel like it's on fire.
STEP 1: Wash face to remove makeup, waterproof mascara, and sunscreen entirely.
Products and practices:
My preferred evening cleanser is Rescue Spa Founder Danucera’s Cerabalm. You can apply it to a dry face as the first step of your double cleanse, then wet it, and the formula becomes foamy for your second cleanse. It’s excellent as a conductive gel for microcurrent devices and also as a 10-minute leave-on mask. TrueBotanicals makes a similar formula for less, albeit a bit oilier, which might be the right choice for you if you wear heavier makeup.
Paula’s Choice Cleansing Balm has remained a favorite for four years, running for price and efficacy. Its thick consistency smashes through eye makeup and sunscreen.
La Roche Posay makes my favorite eye makeup remover. It gets through even the most stubborn waterproof mascara.
Instead of disposable cotton pads, try black washcloths designated for makeup removal. I rely heavily on a makeup eraser for travel.
STEP 2: This is where having a serum wardrobe kicks in. I apply serums and actives in order of viscosity, from thinnest to thickest, depending on need and time of year.
I love Goop’s Youth-Boost Peptide Serum. My skin loves it, and I find it works well with retinol.
Sofie Pavitt’s Mandelic Clearing Serum is a lifesaver for breakout prevention and healing. If you’re struggling with acne, try using only this and a cleanser in the evening for a while.
2024 has been the year of growth factor serums. Leaders of the pack are Dr. Diamond’s Instafacial Serum and my favorite, Eighth Day’s Regenerative Serum. I always wake up to visibly improved skin when I use it.
STEP 3: Time for actives and the retinoid chain. Here’s a good breakdown of what an active is. After cleansing, I used to apply retinol on bone-dry skin, but it was pissing my skin off in cold weather, so now I add a little layer of light moisturizer underneath in the winter. I apply my Tretinoin (more on that below), let it sink in for 15 minutes, and then follow it with a heavier moisturizer. That’s my whole routine that night. I do not pair with actives on the same night.
If your skin doesn’t tolerate Vitamin C or all the shelf stabilization talk confuses you, try Caualie’s Vinoperfect serum instead. This dark spot-lifting alternative also brightens and evens skin tone. I’ve seen good results, and several friends with great skin (in their 20s and 40s!) rave about it.
Suitable acid toners will sweep that dead skin off and de-gunk your pores. Biologique arguably launched this category with p50, but it has a lot of (less harsh) competitors these days. The most popular is Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant. Its salicylic acid-heavy formula is excellent for blackheads in particular. I splash a little on my fingers and tap it into my chin, nose, chest, and shoulders. Brand new on the scene is Eadem’s Cashmere Peel, which instead relies on Azelaic and Lactic acid in a milkier formula that’s gentler for winter or harsh climates.
Equally potent, though with an entirely different ingredient set, is Eighth Day’s Resurfacing Tonic. I keep it around as my blackhead and hormonal acne blaster. If I have a breakout, especially around my period, I reach for this. It’s worth noting that I have been using this stuff for almost two years now, almost since the day it came out, and it’s stuck in my routine despite the arrival of many new kids. It’s also fabulous for ingrown hair.
Another great product for your hormonal acne arsenal is Sofie Pavitt’s Benzoyl Peroxide mask. About a week before your period, spread a thin layer wherever you tend to break out. Wash it off after no more than ten minutes. Fast forward, you won’t have any of those mean undergrounders when Aunt Flo is in town.
If I’m lazy and don’t want to do much after I wash my face, or if my skin looks dull, Goop Glow’s Overnight Glow peel has long been my go-to one-step. My skin loves the fruit acids gently turning things over as I sleep. And while I still like and recommend them, YSE Beauty now has a very similar glycolic acid product with a lot more bang for the buck — you get a ton of pads, so you don’t feel bad swiping them along legs for ingrown hair or in armpits to stop odor (yes, you can use Glycolic for that!)
The peel that really blew me away only came out a few weeks ago, and it’s U Beauty’s Flash Peel. I was so impressed the first time I used it that I leaned over to my guy and made him touch my face. I was in disbelief at how my skin felt. It’s the closest thing to an in-clinic peel you can get at home. Just know this stuff is strong—don’t leave it on for more than ten minutes! I’ve been using it bi-weekly.
Tretinoin (aka Retin A) is widely recommended as the most effective anti-aging topical. It’s only available by prescription but is untouchable regarding legitimate results. Some telehealth derms like Apostrophe and Hers will prescribe it to you online, making it pretty easy to access even without health insurance. Tret plumps up fine lines, fights acne, and improves the overall texture + tone of the skin. Depending on skin sensitivity, you only need to apply a tiny pea-sized bit once or twice a week. You can build up a tolerance over time. Be warned: Tretinoin is a long game. It may take at least six months to see results and is meant to be used routinely for a lifetime. You might see a tiny breakout at first if your skin is purging stuff hiding under the surface, which is why you may have heard the term “retinoid uglies” before. It’ll pass. It’s worth it.
Adapalene is a good prescription-strength retinoid alternative to Tretinoin that does not require a prescription. It can be purchased at the drugstore as Differin or Effaclar.
If your skin doesn’t tolerate Tret or Adapalene, you can still tackle wrinkles and hyperpigmentation with retinol. Try an excellent, super stable product like Goop’s new 3x Retinol Serum. I’ve only had my hands on this for a couple of months, but so far, I really like the results (most notably, improved skin tone), and it doesn’t irritate my skin at all. Other great contenders in the retinol category are Augustinus Bader, de Mamiel’s Gravity Fix, and Dr. Diamond’s Emulsion.
STEP 4: Moisturize well enough to last the night, including lips and down to the nips!
I like U Beauty’s The Barrier Bioactive Treatment for the evening. It’s the only moisturizer I’ve ever used that still leaves me feeling dewy in the morning. I also use this stuff in the daytime if I know I will be in the elements often on a cold/dry day. It’s also fantastic for mature skin. Something a little lighter and more viscous but equally luxe is the growth factor-rich Auteur Definitive Renewal Cream. (I’m sorry about the prices of these, I am.)
Mild eczema is a new thing I’ve experienced since moving to Manhattan. Yay. It comes at random. It was awful there for a while; I leaned on products with Colloidal Oatmeal to combat dry spots. My sister recommended First Aid Beauty’s Ultra Repair Cream, which soothed the inflammation enough that I could cover it with makeup. I don’t use it daily, but I am happy I have it on hand whenever needed. I slather it on and let it cook.
A little dab of overnight eye cream isn’t a religious thing for me, sometimes I’ll just take my moisturizer under my eyes. But if your under eyes are sensitive or prone to keratosis pilaris (KP), something specially formulated for evenings might be in order.
I’ve always been a weird night breather. As a kid, I would rest my tongue between my teeth and sleep with my mouth open because my sinuses were constantly clogged. I even had my adenoids taken out at one point. I still genuinely hate waking up with a dry mouth and lips. Those issues plague me today, meaning I need thick lip balm for nighttime. It’s been a lifetime search. Only two products work well overnight for a mouth breather, and they’re both new this year: The Outset’s Botanical Rescue Barrier Balm and Furtuna Skin’s Olive Lip Butter Balm, which pairs nicely with a micro-exfoliating sister product to slough off dry skin before applying. If it’s cold out, I’ll go even further and top them with Aquaphor or Prequel’s Skin Utility Ointment.
Sometimes, an evening moisturizing mask is in order — like when the heater kicks on. Like the rest of the internet, I’m heavy into those Biodance collagen masks that rest on your skin overnight. The results are impressive. For a quicker drench, I like 111Skin’s Black Diamond Mask, Auteur’s Definitive Optimising Mask, and Sisley’s Velvet Sleeping Mask, which I’ll use instead of a moisturizer.
If I have a zit, I’ll put one of these on or dot it with Environ’s Sebu-Clear Mask.
So many of us baby our faces and then wholly neglect the skin on the rest of our bodies!
Products and practices:
Necessaire has a fantastic lineup of body care products, including a Vitamin C + enzyme body wash, a quick-absorbing, peptide-rich moisturizer, and even a body retinol. Everything is gentle, efficacious, reasonably priced, widely available, and enjoyable to use.
For bar soap, Soft Services is unbeatable. Their Buffing Bar exfoliates and feels insanely good to use. I always describe it as a back scratch in a bar. I need them to make some kind of handle that the soap snaps into so I can reach my back on my own—that one’s free, Soft Services.
Nerra is new(er) on the scene, but I love their luxurious approach to body and bathing. Spring for the Bathhouse Ritual, and don’t go fragrance-free. The Jasmine scent is unreal.
I’ve mentioned Hanni before, a brand that’s entirely overtaken my shaving routine with their razors, Waterbalm spray-on moisturizer, The Fatty moisturizing stick, and Shave Pillow.
As part of my shaving routine, I’ve also mentioned how much I like Megababe’s Apres Shave to deter ingrowns. Still truckin’.
I love a good, luxe body oil; my current favorite is Augustinus Bader’s new Rose and Geranium Body Oil. Smells expensive, babe.
Sephora Savings Event: Use code SAVINGS. Rouge will be 20% off beginning 11/1/24, VIB 15% off, and Insider 10% off beginning 11/5. The sale ends for everyone on 11/11/24.
Credo Beauty: If Sephora doesn’t have it, Credo might — plus all kinds of other niche clean beauty. Use code JESS for 20% off sitewide for everybody.
Alchemy 43 (Botox, Filler, Laser, GLP-1): Jessica97AE for 50% off first visit
Allies of Skin (skincare): LOVELIST for 20% off
Anablue (scalp care): JESS15 for 15% off
Blue Lagoon Iceland (skincare): JESS20 for 20% off
Bluestone Sunshields (sun protection gear): JESS15 for 15% off
Hanni (elevated shaving and body care): 20% off with JESS20
iNNBEAUTY (skincare and makeup): LOVELIST20 for 20% off $65+ orders
Jillian Dempsey (skincare, devices, and makeup): JESSGRAVES for 20% off
Joanna Czech (skincare): JESS15 for 15% off products through 12/31/24
Mother Science (skincare): JESSGRAVES for 15% off
Nerra Body (body care): JESS15 for 15% off
Omorovicza (luxury skincare): JESS20 for 20% off
Shielded Beauty (sun care and skincare): JESS20 for 20% off
Sofie Pavitt Face (skincare): 10% off with code JESS10
Summer Fridays (skincare): 15% off your order with code JESS15 (excludes gift cards and sets)
TRNR (skincare): JESS10 for 10% off
The Outset (simply formulated skincare): JESS20 for 20% off all individual products (excluding bundles and value sets).
U Beauty (skincare): JESS20 for 20% off
Versed (skin and body care): JESSGRAVES10 for 10% off
VETTED Dermlab (clean skincare): JESS15 for 15% off
Ziip (microcurrent skincare device): GRAVES for 10% off
How weird would it be to print this out and bring it to Sephora with me?
This guide was amazing but honestly the cutie photo of you and your pup was the best part!!