This Is What Denim Looks Like When Women Design It for Themselves
OSSOU's Nina Khosla and Talia Shuvalov tackle the Designer Dossier Questionnaire.
You know when your friends start working on something, and you know it’s going to hit? That was OSSOU. I clocked it a year or so ago when Nina Khosla and Talia Shuvalov started showing up to things in clothes I couldn’t place, but felt suspiciously… correct. The washes were perfect. The fit was nonchalant but engineered. You could sense the design logic behind it before you ever knew a brand name. I started hounding Talia to fess up.
Both women come from deeply disciplined backgrounds—Nina in tech and conceptual fashion (FFORME), Talia in fashion and fine jewelry (EREDE). Their closets are filled with stories, emotional artifacts, and pieces that prioritize both form and function equally. So it tracks that OSSOU started as a conversation between them—about denim, about utility, about what wasn’t working in their wardrobes. The result isn’t just a brand, it’s a system. A stripped-down, sculptural, and deeply wearable wardrobe built around one material: denim.
And it’s good. Good in the way that makes you want the same pair in two sizes. Good in the way that sneaks up on you—clean at first glance, but dense with detail. These aren’t jeans to please the algorithm. They’re jeans for people who clock the rise, the inseam break, the curve of a back yoke. People who notice bar tack placement and know when a wash is right. People who get off on the quiet thrill of a perfect fit—the kind that sharpens your posture, cinches your waist, and makes you walk a little taller.
Jess Graves: How would each of you describe your personal styles? If someone raided your closet, what story would they piece together about your life?
Nina Khosla: I’m a minimalist at heart, but I do love edgy pieces and handmade details. At the heart of my aesthetic is a constant tension between things that are very pure but are also expressive. My closet is full of practical pieces and beautiful, simple things, but also weirder pieces with a little bit of attitude.
Talia Shuvalov: It’s a mix of denim, tailoring, and an unreasonable amount of knitwear. I rotate between well-worn boots, vintage pieces, and EREDE jewelry, along with the occasional sculptural piece that could double as modern furniture.
My style is minimal and easy, but always with a bit of tension, something off-kilter or emotionally charged, like a perfect white tee with men’s tuxedo pants, or a high-neck knit under a chocolate chore coat. There’s a lot of restraint, but also a quiet intimacy in the clothes. Every piece carries a story—places I’ve been, people I’ve loved, fits I’ve obsessed over. I dress like someone who believes in function but romanticizes the everyday.
I own more dresses than I’ll ever wear, but I live in shirts, trousers, and denim, layered whenever possible, finished with a gestural belt or some small, deliberate punctuation.
JG: You both already have thriving brands (EREDE, FFORME). What made you to say yes to something else?
NS: It’s not necessarily about ‘saying yes’ to things - for me, the idea takes hold and doesn’t let go. That’s how I know I’m onto something that just has to exist. I wear a lot of FFORME, but what I really wear every day is denim.
When I saw the opportunity for a brand that is a true luxury interpretation of denim, I knew I had to move forward and make it happen. OSSOU also carries this cool aesthetic that I was looking to express.
TS: The truth is, OSSOU didn’t feel like something else; it felt like something was missing. We were having all these conversations about how much of our everyday wardrobes revolved around denim, but how little of it actually felt thoughtful, or built with the same design integrity we brought to our other work. So we created what we couldn’t find: a denim-focused wardrobe with a real point of view, stripped back, built to last, and quietly expressive. Also, we clearly don’t know how to sit still.
JG: Origin story time: Was it instant chemistry or a slow burn to become Co-Creative Directors?
TS: We connected early on through a shared love of materiality and design rigor, but learning how to translate what was often instinctive or unspoken into a shared creative language took time. That friction has turned out to be one of our strengths. We come at things from different angles, and that push and pull adds depth, layers, and a kind of creative tension that ultimately makes the work stronger. It’s not always seamless, but it’s always honest, and that’s what keeps it real.
JG: What's in your cart right now?
NS: I’m looking at a set of David Marshall mixed metal candle holders. They remind me of our button on the OSSOU jeans, which was inspired by another artist, Saloua Raouda Choucair, who also created some beautiful mixed-metal pieces. On the fashion side, I’d love to find a Hermes Kelly Sport PM in black. This is such a classic bag that feels modern and is the ultimate luxury.
TS: I have had my eye on this vintage Donna Karan belt for a while and just pulled the trigger, as well as this Margiela poplin wrap shirt.
JG: What’s the most unhinged thing in your cart right now?
TS: My cart is completely unhinged. I can’t even imagine what Nina’s going to say - I’m scared. Neither of us has any sense of restraint when it comes to shopping. Honestly, I’m just relieved that this Jorge Zalszupin armchair finally sold, so I can stop fantasizing about it.
NS: A little gold-plated hair clip from Patcharavipa. Does anyone need such a thing? Do I even wear hair clips regularly? Isn't this just something that will get lost at the bottom of my bag forever? No, and no, and yes. But I still suddenly deeply desire to be a hair clip wearing person with this little luxurious spin to it.
JG: What should be in my cart right now? (Aside from the shirt I have been coveting for a year).
NS: I’m dying for the OSSOU Bends jean. That’s our wide-leg jean with a low curve — it’s a very cool silhouette, and I plan on getting it in two different sizes so I can wear it more slouchy and low-slung, or higher on the waist and more refined. I suggest you do the same!
TS: I’d say the OSSOU Haze Shirt, it has a really special trupunto cuff detail I know you’ve been eyeing. It’ll be available online in the Fall. Until then, the Flex Jean in Sable is a favorite; I love the richness of the dark indigo, and the Rider Jean in Mojave Wash is perfect for summer.
JG: If you could force one item into everyone’s closet this summer, what would it be?
NS: The Noon Jean in Clay wash. This is the perfect classic jean, but in a color that feels new and more versatile than indigo.
TS: I’d insist on the Rider Jean in Mojave Wash. Our yarn-dyed denim patinas just like indigo, so it wears in beautifully over time. The color is a perfect neutral for summer, easy to layer, and surprisingly versatile. I love the fit: it sits low on the hip with a subtle bow in the leg, cut more like a men's trouser than a traditional jean, which gives it a slightly more polished feel.
JG: Is there a piece from your personal collection you secretly regret letting go of?
TS: Starting to regret letting go of my Balenciaga motorcycle bag collection all those years ago. Not my best display of foresight, if I’m honest.
JG: What’s a garment detail you’ll never get over, like a personal kink?
NS: I love the way we tweaked the bar tacks on the back pocket of our jeans; it’s become a subtle brand signature and a detail we've become obsessed with. All we did was rotate the traditional placement slightly, but it creates just enough tension to feel unexpected while still rooted in authenticity.
JG: What fashion/business rules do you break on purpose?
NS: Given my background in tech, you’d think I’d be more data-driven than I am. But I truly believe that in fashion, creating something emotional and resonant depends on a human vision. Part of what’s special about working in a small business is being able to follow your gut. Every piece is something we believe in and would want to wear ourselves.
TS: Most of them? We don’t subscribe to the idea that denim should only be casual. And I’m deeply suspicious of the phrase “elevated basics.” If it’s truly elevated, it’s not basic; and if it’s basic, why are we elevating it? We just do things our way: deeply considered, yes, but always filtered through our own instincts and point of view. We’re also challenging the way people typically work with denim, treating it not as a category, but as a material with endless potential.
JG: What was the last piece of culture (book, film, meme, essay, anything) that felt like a breath of fresh air?
NS: I visited the studio of the artist Sarah Meyohas, and it was incredibly inspiring! Her approach is multi-disciplinary and fearless, and the intensity with which she commits to learning new mediums is daunting, to say the least.
Since I studied in the mechanical engineering department, I have a particular interest in robotics and how things are made. The depth of thought and attention to detail surrounding mark-making with robotics and machines is bringing what’s unsaid about human hands to the fore.
TS: Can I say the Kylie Minogue concert? It truly fed my Aussie soul.
I also recently watched All Dirt Roads Taste of Salt, and it completely rearranged me. It felt like someone filmed memory itself, quiet, tactile, and full of all the things that go unsaid but sit heavy anyway. It made me want to slow down, touch the ground more, and call my mum.
JG: What corner of the internet do you go to when you’re craving inspiration—or chaos?
TS: I already know Nina’s answer, so I’ll let her take this one. It’s genuinely inspiring to watch someone get recharged by Reddit.
NS: Reddit! I’m such a nerd at heart, and I rely on Reddit for everything. Entertainment, niche interests and hobbies, or questions as specific as, “What bedding or towels should I be buying? What vacuum cleaner is best? How do I remove a stain?” — Reddit always has someone who’s nerded out and found the best answer. The biggest surprise for me is how high-quality many of the answers are. Otherwise, AITA, which stands for “Am I the Asshole?” was a source of chaos for me for years, but these days I just skip to the good stuff on Best of Redditor Updates.
JG: What makes you immediately open your Notes app?
NS: I’m a visual person; I track everything through my camera roll. Anything I react to visually, a magazine image, a piece of art, whatever it is—it all ends up there.
JG: Where are you traveling this summer, and what’s on your packing list?
TS: Aspen and upstate New York. I’ll bring hiking gear, mostly Alo and proper trail shoes, and a mix of Ossou jeans for the cooler nights. A couple pairs of vintage Issey Miyake Pleats Please pants, some Lemaire and Ossou shirts, and an easy vintage black tube top for summer dressing. Swimwear from Totême and Matteau, plus a P. Johnson silk sarong I love to wear around the pool, and a vintage ’90s Helmut Lang crochet skirt to round it out.
JG: What have you been getting the most wear out of this summer in the city?
NS: My Loewe petal mules. It’s a pretty shoe with an unusual, weird shape, and the mesh makes it breathable. It’s the perfect heel height and easy to wear.
TS: A pair of vintage nude-toned Issey Miyake Pleats Please pants I picked up at the vintage fair a few weeks ago.
JG: What’s a tiny daily luxury you can’t live without?
NS: Silk pajamas. If we’re going to spend a third of our lives sleeping, we might as well do it in luxury! I’ve worn Olivia von Halle for years, but the Lunya washable silk high-rise pant set is a good option too.
TS: Monastery Gold Oil all over my face.
JG: Nina, Talia has already told us about her makeup-in-the-tub trick. Your turn: drop a beauty secret.
NS: I’m a beauty nerd at heart — I am the type of person who has a favorite form of vitamin C (tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) and a favorite sunscreen (La Roche Posay UVmune 400, which protects deeper into the UVA spectrum than most other sunscreens are capable of). But the biggest thing for me (besides sunscreen) was almost 10 years ago when I quit relying on retinol for anti-aging and switched to peptides and growth factors. They’re a big thing now, but at the time I seemed a bit crazy. My friend makes a great mist that you can use whenever you need a pick-me-up.
JG: What’s on your studio playlist right now?
TS: Brandy and Monica, gearing up for their tour in November, and I can’t wait.
JG: What do you collect that’s not clothes, and what does it say about you?
TS: I collect furniture, mostly vintage or sculptural pieces. It probably says I care about form and function equally, and that I treat spaces the way some people treat wardrobes: intentionally, obsessively, and always evolving.
JG: I knew you would say that. What’s the object in your house that everyone comments on?
TS: My Ekstrem chair, which everyone thinks is wildly impractical, until they sit in it and realize it’s the most comfortable chair I own. And probably also my Gae Aulenti coffee table. I’ve had it for over ten years; it’s the anchor piece in my space and still gets the most comments.
JG: What’s the archival piece you’re always hunting for but haven’t found yet? Your fashion “white whale”?
NS: Anything from Margiela’s years at Hermes. That was ultimately inspiring to me, and it really got me thinking about fashion as a career.
TL: Nina and I are aligned on this answer. It's a joint hunt.
They have such incredible taste - very tempted to try the denim! Margiela-era Hermès is LORE. The Initiale bag is a best-kept secret, even more UTR than the Victoria and Plume (which are not Margiela obv).
i used to look at denim (not so very long ago) and say "$200 is my absolute limit!" then I let that creep to "Under $300 not so bad." so. Before I comment "let's normalize jeans NOT costing the better part of $500" (full disclosure i've got the Shon pant in 3 colors...) i wonder would someone be able to convince me on these?