A Beauty Edit for the Fashion Romantics
A backstage look at Kallmeyer's runway beauty. Plus: a Q&A with Bobbi Brown.
February, for all its grey doldrums, is a month when beauty simmers. There is fashion month to consider, when the peacocks fan their feathers and jostle for pecking order, and Valentine’s day — when we’re waxed, buffed and plucked to the slinkiest of lengths for our lovers (or ourselves).
In today’s letter, I go backstage at fashion week to unpack the runway hair and makeup looks at two of New York’s hottest shows. We’ve also got some sexy ideas for the nape of your neck and bikini line, and the primordial master of minimal makeup Bobbi Brown tells us what’s in her cart.
Modern romance was the presiding theme of the makeup at Kallmeyer’s F/W ‘25 runway this week, where I was invited backstage to watch Saie Beauty take the helm and kiss model’s visages with just a whisper of makeup. Skin was dewy, lips were plump and glossy, and a pared-back feeling of “just enough” minimalism rippled through the looks.
Despite being an industry vet, Daniela Kallmeyer is only now breaking into the mainstream, undoubtedly enjoying the lingering spoils of the Row-led “quiet luxury” trend, which propped her up on a larger stage. She seized the moment well, and now finds herself within the ranks of the “holy trinity” (Khaite, Toteme, and The Row) — arguably all aesthetic descendants of Phoebe Philo, and exactly the way I want to dress.
She’s found fervent fans from deep within the confines of the fashion fiefdom, among New York’s out-and-about like Chole Fineman, and in the company of boldface names like Gwyneth Paltrow and Cynthia Erivo. Maybe it’s the ease of her garments that do it; elegant things, often boysish. You can throw them on without too much thought, and they’re easy to style for real life without being dumbed down for overconsumption.
Her line continues to build momentum with every collection, riffing on her signature modern silhouettes. It’s elevated, but (and I’ll use this word again for emphasis) easy. That kind of simplicity and restraint is difficult to achieve season after season without boring people.
These are clothes for people who have already front-loaded their lives and don’t need what they’re wearing to speak for them (but who still appreciate the quiet sex appeal of a just-undone button-down).
With Saie Beauty, there’s a natural kinship. Saie hopes to push the color and features of the wearer without being noisy. It isn’t makeup that’s meant to be piled on. It’s for the person who loves a Fraxel laser so that they can roll out of bed most mornings without a great deal of “getting ready” and still look polished.
At Kallmeyer, the clothes are the backdrop — the wearer is the main event. At Saie, skin is the main event — makeup is to set it off. Backstage, Daniela Kallmeyer’s direction for Saie’s team was to recreate the dewy glow of lovers after rolling in the sheets.
Makeup was painterly and expressionist. Faces were sculpted with Saie Glowy Super Gel Highlighter to work with the light, with a soft veil of Sun Melt Bronzer in deep bronze for warmth and shape. Eyes looked slept-in and spare, with slick, glossy lashes as though models had just stepped out of the shower.
This got me thinking about other ways we front load our aesthetic maintenance. Botox comes top of mind, or anything clinical that you do once and lasts for some time. Women like this opt for nails that don’t have to be touched up daily, maintain bikini lines that require mere monthly visits (Fur’s Ingrown Serum is a hero here, encouraging cell turnover to prevent buildup, keep skin smooth and soothe irritation, use THELOVELIST15 for 15% off), and know how to stretch one blowout for a good four days (silk pillowcase, dry shampoo).
Sitting with Garance Doré last week, I thought, this is someone who really gets that woman because she is that woman. “That is very Love List, very chic,” She warmly declared in her French accent after asking how I met my fiancè.
There is no pretense, only total unfeigned presence and grace, and her brand DORÉ, which offers pared back menu of skincare (only what you need, nothing more) feels like a natural extension of her Parisian sensibilities.
Doré’s new Le Serum (launching Feb 20) is juicy but spare, easy to incorporate for many skin types given its gentility and lack of actives. I gave it to my makeup artist to prep my skin later that night, and we both agreed it was a lovely base. (The Micellaire water is also excellent.)
Paired with Sofie Pavitt’s new Omega Rich Moisturizer (out 2/18 on the Sephora app and 2/19 at sofiepavitt.com, use code JESS10 for 10% off), my face stayed hydrated — even layered with full makeup in sub-30 degree weather — for the duration of four full Fashion Week parties.
People also kept complimenting me on how I smelled, proving a trial run of U Beauty’s new PROEM Eau de Parfum (from a lab sample! Use code JESS20 for 20% off) is worth bringing into my repertoire. (I really do thoroughly test the things I tell you about here). Nuzzled into the nape of my neck, even Kevin appreciated it. It’s going to sit right next to my new bottle of Vyrao’s new Sun Rae fragrance, which my friend Alessandra Codinha described as “Clinique Happy for 2025”. Yes, that!
At TWP on Monday, the stylists at David Mallett kept hair natural and un-fussy. You don’t go to Mallett for beach waves or blinding white-blonde. His team excels at perfectly undone tresses with polish.
Backstage, stylists weren’t fighting against model’s natural hair textures — the look was very effortless, very “woke up like this”. There were no hair accessories, elaborate braids or updos, just indecipherable blowouts with gentle bends, sleek buns, low ponytails, and Philoesque hair tucks. To the right was a casting sheet used to shade match skin tones, and scattered about beneath was a rainbow of Westman Atelier.
Hair tucks prevailed at Kallmeyer, too — along with similar low-slung ponytails resting below the nape of the neck, finished with a loping, minimal black ribbon. Cascading down the back of open-back styles, it looked elegant and evening without being fussy.
On the topic of minimal beauty, we can’t gloss over the undisputed queen. The inventor of “no makeup makeup” (who raised me with her how-to books before BeautyTok was a twinkle in the zeitgeist’s eye) is back with Jones Road, the simple-to-use makeup that touts fewer, better products. Below, she tackles our Boxcutter shopping questionnaire.
My best fashion investment was: My first Chanel blazer is a forever favorite. It’s classic, black, and timeless. It effortlessly elevates any outfit—even my torn Levi’s—and never goes out of style. It’s the one item in my closet I’ll never part with.
A beauty product I am always reaching for is: I don’t know how I ever lived without Jones Road Miracle Balm. It makes me feel fresh and alive every time I use it. I wear it on no-makeup days, layer it over my makeup, and even use it for touch-ups in the afternoon—it’s truly a game-changer.
If I could, I would spend all my money buying: Hermès is the ultimate classic for me—timeless design and outstanding quality. I love my Hermès purses, clogs, and boots, but I’m equally smitten with their home items. Their baby towels make the perfect baby gifts, and there’s nothing quite like a luxurious Hermès throw.
Something I am always re-purchasing is: Splits59 tights and Handvaerk T-shirts are my go-to basics. I’m always refining my list of favorites, and these two are at the top. I recently stocked up on a new pair of Splits59 leggings. They’re ultra-thin, not see through, and hold everything in—perfect for workouts and running errands around town. My favorite T-shirts are by a newer brand, Handvaerk. I buy six in white and six in black, making getting ready in the morning effortless. Whether I layer them with a sweatshirt or blazer, they always look great and hold up beautifully in the wash.
Something I just bought to wear this winter is: Today I bought a Paul Smith navy suit that I have been dreaming about. It’s classic, it’s comfortable, it’s chic, and will work wherever my travels take me, from Palm Beach to London to New York.
Something in my cart right now is: White Gucci loafers. I’m considering them for Palm Beach and summer. I love a good comfy loafer, and these take my Steve Maddens up a notch.
My favorite place to shop online is: Saks.com. It’s perfect for its mix of fashion-forward pieces and timeless classics like Theory and Vince
___________ is a brand I love supporting because: Caddis — their messaging is spot on. They make you feel good about your age and exactly where you are in life.
But can you share the products you used for your hair in your IG Stories because I am so into it
Love this letter.