The Love List's Beauty Black Book, Part I

Treatments, tweakments, and the people who make you hotter.

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Additional consideration is provided by Nutrafol and Great Many. Use THELOVELIST for $100 off at Great Many.

If you would like to work with The Love List, please email Lauren Shonkoff at lauren@aire-ny.com.

I spend a lot of time on my back (in treatment beds, get your mind out of the gutter). The last two years have been taxing, both mentally and on my physical health, and I went from looking like “me” to some underslept bitch I don’t recognize.

I decided it was time to fix that, and my upcoming wedding gave me a great deadline to work back from. In this process, I’ve undergone some good (and not-so-good) treatments and encountered some gifted practitioners. Below is my “Beauty Black Book,” which I plan to update regularly from here on out as technology and the city’s beauty landscape evolve. Part II is cooking!

(I am by no means an expert, but if you want to dive a little deeper into beauty and wellness Substack I recommend

Shira Barlow, MS, RD

,

S.P.A.

,

The Vanity

,

Marisa Meltzer

,

Kirbie Johnson

,

Charlotte Palermino

, and if you’re into surgery,

Aesthetics Unfiltered

.)

Beauty happens in tiny, 1% shifts. Here’s to getting a little hotter, a little smarter, and a little more in touch with ourselves.

HAIR:

• CUT/BLOWOUT: If you’ve read this newsletter for any amount of time, you know I’m very loyal to the team at David Mallet in Soho. Located on the 5th floor of the Webster (and now with a new location at WSA in Fidi), my stylist is (and shall always be) Ryan Arcenaux. He specializes in longer hair, though, so if you have a short cut or if you’re a dude, I’d go to Stephen Thevenot, who is also fabulous. Ryan has seen me through a million eras of hair ADD with patience and wit, and he gives a blowout so skillful I’ve developed a dependency.

• COLOR: Also at David Mallett is Kaylee Benuto, who has seamlessly moved me from deep-chocolate brunette to Jennifer Lawrence blonde and back to brunette again. The fact that I wanted to try blonde is a testament to my confidence in her because I wasn’t even nervous about doing it.

• HEALTH AND GROWTH: Like many, I experienced a lot of hair thinning after a bout of long(ish) COVID and went looking for a solution. I found it in two parts. Part one was an oral Minoxidil prescription. I don’t care for topical minoxidil; it makes my hair greasy, and it is poisonous for my (very kissy) dogs. Part two was finally listening to my friends and getting on a hair growth supplement. I have tried Wellbell and Nutrafol, but Nutrafol agrees better with my system. (I think it’s the Biotin-free formula; Biotin tends to upset my skin.) I noticed less hair shedding almost immediately, and over time, Ryan clocked how quickly my hair has been growing (and how much thicker it is). I also occasionally visit Tomoko Shima, a Japanese head spa on West 14th. The head spa service is a detox that includes a thorough scalp diagnosis and cleanse, several rounds of head massage, and finishes with a blowout.

• FOR THE GUYS: My fiancé, Kevin (like just about all guys), is worried about hair loss, too. He is a longtime Minoxidil user, but the kind folks at Great Many invited him in for PRP. (Though half of their clients are women!) PRP stands for Platelet-Rich Plasma. It’s a treatment where they take a small vial of your blood, spin it in a machine to separate the good stuff (the platelets), and then inject or microneedle that concentrated plasma back into your skin or scalp. Why? Platelets are packed with growth factors, which help trigger your body’s natural healing process. Think of it as flipping on the “repair and regenerate” switch, using your own biology. The result? New hair growth! It isn’t instant, though; he’s returning for round 2 in a month. Great Many is well-priced, too — Kevin’s package of 3 is $1,485. It’s still an investment (and a slow burn), but it's worth it.

SKIN:

• INJECTABLES, NEUROMODULATORS/FILLERS: Let’s begin where everyone is most curious, with Botox, fillers, and their ilk. I’ve been to several spots around town. It’s worth noting that I have a severe needle phobia, so I have to advocate for myself in the treatment room and voice my needs: have a nurse pat my shoulder during injection to redirect my body, keep me talking, lay me back, move quickly, and DO NOT let me see the needle. I get filler in my cheeks and jawline. I get Botox/Dysport in my hairline, 11s, neck, and traps. The most skillful and gifted injector I have ever worked with is Dr. Shereene Idriss (who also has a fantastic skincare line focused on discoloration and dark spots). She took one look at me and knew exactly what to do, and the before/afters (which you’ll see soon in my Marie Claire column) are drastic. We did filler and Dysport, and I look like the best, most rested version of myself. I’ve also had great Botox experiences at The Brightwood on the UES (specifically with the Nefertiti lift) and CONTOR Studio in Soho — I went to the Co-founder, Brad Crerar, who is fantastic. I am less picky about where I get trapezius Botox; it’s more about the price than anything. I’ll try masseter Botox this week and report back in part II!

• FACIALS: I avoid extractions and get annoyed (cough, Rescue Spa) when the practitioner ignores this preference. I don’t mind a few if they are necessary, but if you spend a full 15 minutes smashing my face after I ask you not to, I’m never coming back. I’m always red for days after and experience a follow-up breakout. No, thank you. I also don’t want to pay someone to rub cream on my face for an hour and then try to sell me the cream (HeyDay). I know some of you love extractions, so before you leave a comment, remember my recommendations are based on my own preferences! Given the multiple modalities and tech she incorporates, Raquel New York probably wins best all-around for me. Her studio’s such a chill vibe, and she always plays the best music. When I gave myself perioral dermatitis last year (too much product tinkering), I went straight to Sofie Pavitt (she’s known as “The Acne Whisperer” for a reason). She figured out the root cause in one session, corrected my routine, and sent me on my way. I haven’t struggled with those breakouts since. If you’re looking for a facial as part of a broader spa day, go directly to the Spa at Casa Cipriani.

• FACIAL SCULPTING, MANUAL/MICROCURRENT: I’ve written at length about my experience with Joseph Carillo, so go read about why I love him. He introduced me to facial posture, which set me on a corrective journey (including dental work) that I needed. He also makes house calls, which your girl sometimes needs. I also love going to Joanna Czech for a good lift n’ snatch. (My last post-facial selfie there flooded my DMs!) You want someone who knows what they’re doing regarding facial and buccal massage — someone who doesn’t can hurt you. Make sure you do a little research before booking, and look for someone like Joseph or Joanna’s team who also incorporates microcurrent for that extra lift. (If you go, Joanna also has a full-size red light LED bed!)

• LASERS AND PEELS: A few days a month, Sofie also practises out of Center Aesthetics and Dermatology in Union Square. She’s where I go during the colder months, when the time is best for skin corrections. I particularly like the VIPeel, a medium-depth chemical peel that removes dull, damaged outer layers of skin to reveal brighter, smoother, more even-toned skin underneath. It’s stronger than a spa facial, but less intense than a full TCA peel, and safe for most skin tones. It shed my skin like a snake for four days (worth it). I also saw good results from Clear and Brilliant, an excellent laser for evening texture and knocking out any spots from the previous summer. It’s like a mini, targeted skin refresh that works just below the surface—more substantial than a facial, gentler than a hardcore laser. Both treatments require some numbing beforehand and take about 20 minutes (VIPeel doesn’t hurt, and Clear and Brilliant feels a bit like a rubber band snapping against your skin), but I was back out and about two days after my laser.

• SKINCARE AND SUPPLEMENTS: I write an annual skincare guide, and you can read 2024’s edition here. But Nutrafol has a new skin supplement, which I’ve recently tried and want to mention here. It addresses acne, scarring, blackheads, and excess oil by targeting the root cause of skin issues (cough, hormones). I’ve been closely watching how my hormones change at this age, and Clear Skin Neutraceutical isn’t upsetting the balance. I’ve combined it with Ritual’s Hyacera, which is more anti-aging focused, and a new NAD supplement that I’ll tell you about once I’ve been taking it longer. Either way, talk to your doc before listening to me! Everyone should run their supplements by a medical professional before starting to ensure they're a good fit for their body. Gotta double check about conflicts and ensure you’re not getting too much of one ingredient!

NAILS:

I’ll preface this section by saying I am 90% a bare-nails girl and don’t do polish. I go to these places on a special occasion. My more manicure-adept friends rave about them.

• MANICURE, RUSSIAN: Gilded Ritual is the gold standard for Russian Manicures. It’s a time investment up front (I have trouble sitting still for two hours), but your nails will be flawless for a month after. A Russian manicure is more time-intensive given the tedious cuticle work (moreso if you get nail extensions like Apres), but the girls who love it love it. I go this route before a vacation or another long stint where I know I won’t get to a nail salon. I would not try to walk in here unless it’s in the middle of a weekday. It’s popular. Book ahead.

• MANICURE, STANDARD: Everything is expensive in New York City except manicures. There’s a nail salon on every street corner, and all of them take walk-ins, which makes an express mani pretty easy to come by. I like Cleo Spa in my neighborhood for its cleanliness and professionalism. I get a manicure and buff with no polish and indulge in a neck and shoulder massage. For a more elevated manicure, I’d go to Jin Soon.

• PEDICURE, SPA: My favorite pedicure in the city is at Rescue Spa. Called “The Renewal Pedicure” (not to be mistaken for the “Rescue Pedicure”), the practitioner pays extra care to skin buffing and detox. It’s great right after winter because they douse your legs in a generous coat of P50 and then wrap them in hot cloths so the acid can penetrate. You’re left with baby-smooth legs and feet. Amazing for spray tan or summer prep.

• AT-HOME: Since I primarily keep up my nails in the privacy of my own home while watching Love Island, I’ll mention a few favorite maintenance products. I love Olive and June’s intuitive tools, especially their cleanup brush and easy-to-use polish remover. Manicurist makes a great not-quite-polish called Active Glow that delivers a subtle pinky slow and a little shine that makes you look finished but not “done.” For polish, I like Hermes Nail Enamel. Their shades are sophisticated, and the formula hardens quickly. They sent me a few of their new summer shades, and I particularly like a limited-edition (of course) called Blanc Orage, which deposits a subtle oyster-colored sheen.

BODY:

In part two, we’ll explore things I’m still searching for, like a tasteful spray tan (not that terrifying tanning peptide), a good full-body scrub that isn’t seedy, a reliable express massage spot, and a gym/trainer that doesn’t suck. I’ll also dive into GLP-1 prescribers and concierge medicine, including IV therapy. ‘Til then…

• MASSAGE, THERAPEUTIC: Also at Raquel’s studio is Sophie Bolvary, with whom I will occasionally indulge in a 120-minute (!!) massage. The only way I can describe Sophie is as a healer. One time, I was so sick and nauseous I had to cancel, only to have her tell me to come in anyway because she felt she could help. I showed up with five shades of green, barf bowl (literally) in hand, and she made my nausea disappear. I returned home, ate some ginger candy, and slept until morning. I love her.

• MASSAGE, LYMPHATIC: Lymph work (which helps increase the flow of fluids in your body and, by extension, helps with bloat) in my social group begins and ends with one word: Ricari.

  Melanie Masarin
  (what a friend) sent me a session as a gift once, and I’ve never looked back. The method is a string of modalities, including manual and mechanical compression therapy with BallancerPro. They’re located in WSA in New York, but the method is also available in LA, London, and St. Moritz. Joanna Vargas also has a BallancerPro if Fidi is too far for you.

• PILATES, REFORMER/MAT: I have come to hate group fitness classes for one very specific reason: someone is always recording you! I don’t know when this workout as content trend began, but I beg you to leave me out of the background of your TikTok (unless you are the girl who made the baugette TikTok at Tracy Anderson, that was some great gossip). I (optimistically) predict most high-end places will ban this practice soon. Until then, I’ve retreated my workouts to private. My favorite Pilates Studio in New York is TERA, where

  Georgia W. Murphy
  will kick your ass but keep things moving so you’re never bored. She also has a rich library of online classes to stream. You need a referral to her studio, but it isn’t an elitist practice; it just helps her run her business more predictably without relying on the chaos of something like ClassPass.

• SAUNA, INFRARED: Another trend I find gruesome and vulgar is this whole group sauna party thing. If I want to be that close to someone else’s body odor, I can ride the subway in the summer. Sauna, for me, is a time for quiet, phone-free meditation and stillness. It isn’t social. ELIX Wellness in Soho has a private infrared sauna stashed in the back of their studio, which is so tranquil. I’m looking forward to Perspire Sauna Studio opening in Flatiron. I got used to their model in Atlanta and have missed the ease of slipping in and out of a private infrared sauna when I feel like it. Until then, I have a sauna blanket by CurrentBody that works like a charm when I can’t get to Soho for a schvitz. I’m also working on a device edit that will include some of their other products (LED Mask, RF Microcurrent, at-home hair laser). Drop any device requests in comments; I am your guinea pig.

TEETH:

• INTEGRATED DENTISTRY: I have fully put my dental health into the hands of Dr. Jaskaren Randhawa at SAMA Oral Health, who has reset my gut microbiome, filled my cavities, and is now helping correct my bite both structurally and cosmetically. I have a lot of good things to say about her integrative practice, but I’ll hold off until the complete smile makeover is finished — it’ll be a story I tell in my column in Marie Claire. Until then, I just know that Dr. Jas is young (like 30s young, not Doogie Howser young) but sharp (a protege of Dr. Apa), cool, and normal (no smug old man scolding you about flossing), and her office was designed by the same team as the Glossier stores. There’s an infrared sauna and a holistic doctor on call. She gets it. I have never seen a man in there, not one. And I love it.

BROWS:

• WAX, PLUCK, TINT, AND SHAPE: The grand finale, brows! Many of you know I love and adore Jimena Garcia because I’ve sent you to her myself. Her work is beautiful and precise (good enough for Chanel Beauty, most of New York’s social fixtures, your favorite founders, and about a million celebrities). Still, more than that, Jimena makes you feel beautiful. Her studio is chic, the music is always good, and your appointment will fly by because she’s a great hang. I do not even pluck in between appointments. For me, it is Jimena, or nothing.

Who’s in your black book? Name drop in comments!